Last
weekend, I hosted a dinner party that we had donated to our church school
auction. It was an “Evening in Paris” menu, for the 12 who signed up for it. We
started the evening with assorted canapés. To accompany them, we served Lillet
Blanc, a French apéritif, with a slice of orange and a splash of soda. This
gave folks a chance to mingle and chat before being seated.
The first seated course was a
chilled soup. Many years ago, when I first started going to France, chilled
soups weren´t all that common in France except perhaps along the Mediterranean,
or near Spain, where gazpacho might have made it onto the menu. But now, with all the young ambitious new
chefs making the Parisian scene, it´s not at all unusual to see one on a summer
menu.
The obvious advantage to a
chilled soup is that it can be made ahead.
In fact it must be made ahead to allow it to chill and for the flavors
to develop. Another advantage to this
one is that there’s very little preparation involved, since we’re using canned
pears. If you prefer to use fresh pears, make sure they’re ripe, and poach five
or six in water with a little sugar. A little splash of white wine wouldn’t
hurt in the poaching liquid, either.
I like to garnish this with
snipped chives and a few crumbles of blue cheese. While Roquefort would be a
nice match to the flavors in the soup, it’s become enormously expensive. You
can quite nicely substitute another crumbly blue cheese, such as gorgonzola or
Maytag blue.
For the wine pairing, we served
an Alsatian white blend, Hugel Gentil. It was the perfect match.
2 small
shallots, peeled and minced (3 to 4 tbsp.)
1 tsp.
ground cardamom
1 can (29
oz.) pears, drained
Juice and
finely grated zest of one large lemon
2 cups
chicken stock
2 cups
half-and-half cream
Salt and
ground white pepper, to taste
3 oz. blue
cheese crumbles, for garnish
Chives, for
garnish
In a skillet, cook the shallots
in the oil until soft. Add the cardamom
and cook, stirring, about two more minutes.
Put the pears in a food processor and add the shallot mixture. Pulse a
couple of times, then add the lemon juice and zest and the chicken stock. Process until very smooth. Pour into a bowl
and whisk in the half-and-half. Add salt
and ground white pepper to taste. Chill for at least three hours, or until very
cold. Taste again before serving. You might need a little more salt. Serve in
soup cups or flat soup bowls, topped with the blue cheese and chives. Serves 6.
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